Here’s Conner Ives, Central Saint Martins class of 2020, the boy from Bedford, New York, who saw no reason not to start selling his “reconstituted” clothes from school when he was 20. “I’m in my fourth season,” he declares from his flat in London, where he’s unveiling The American Dream, the lineup that is also his graduation collection from CSM’s four-year fashion design and marketing B.A. The course has a year in industry built into it, which Ives spent working at Fenty, after Rihanna spotted Adwoa Aboah wearing a dress of his to the Met Ball in 2017.
This is the first Conner Ives fully-fledged collection as an indie designer, then—a handmade tribute to the girls and women who surrounded him growing up in the U.S. in the 2000s. Each look is a precociously skilled portrait painted from his school days—many of the now 24- and 25-year-old cohort that graduated Fox Lane High in Bedford in 2013 will recognize a lot of what they were up to, in and out of school. “I collected pictures from high school,” Ives says with a laugh. “I thought of putting all these girls with their different styles together. The High Schooler in the collection is my best friend Tatiana. There was this kind of uniform where girls would wear yoga pants and crop tops from Brandy Melville. And I consulted friends who were on the dance team.”
His Valedictorian has a green and brown bias-cut dress with a flippy hem and carries a matching Case-it—classy fabric made from deadstock donated by Carolina Herrera. “Case-its were really our It bags at school! We all rushed out to Staples to buy them in our favorite colors to stand out in class at the start of eighth grade,” says Ives. There’s a Horse Girl, who reminds Ives of Jackie O, whose dress is made of patchwork vintage scarves. Ingeniously, “the train comes all the way up and forms her head scarf.”
The collection begins with an extraordinary suit with a rising sun landscape Ives painted, which is felted into it—a love letter to his mom and an homage to the American folk art he found stashed away in the attic. “Mom had been collecting it, and then put it all away sometime before I was born. It was like discovering a lost city—how I found out from her about Grandma Moses and all that traditional Americana I’ve loved ever since,” he says. That’s plain to see—in a spot-on chic way—with his patchwork dresses, cut and pieced to patterns inspired by the paintings of “the tantric Indian painter Ghulam Rasool Santosh. I really wanted to lean into that New Age spiritual-awakening, L.A.-crunchy thing, because a lot of friends I had growing up were into that.”
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February 28, 2021 at 12:27AM
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Conner Ives Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection - Vogue.com
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